Monday, July 9, 2012

Doll Chemise With Gores and Flat Felled Seams

I recently did a post on making a dolly chemise.
with flat felled seams and a gusset.  This is how
you would add side gores to that chemise.
Here is the link to that post.
Finished side gore.
These are the pieces you would need
 to make the same chemise with flat
felled seams, gussets AND 
the addition of side gores.
This chemise is a straight chemise, more
typical of an early 1800's style.  Fabric came
in smaller widths, gores were added to give
 additional width to garments.
The gores should start about 1 inch below
the finished sleeve.  Make the top of the
gore 6/8 inch wide.  Follow the directions
from the prior post to the point where the
gusset is done and stop sewing.
Righ here!  Don't finish the side seam to the
bottom of the chemise.
Lay one gore next to the left front
side of the chemsie. ( we
are using a 3/8 in. seam)
Right sides are up.
 Pin WRONG sides together.
A flat felled seam is sewn on the top
side of your garment.  Stitch together
 with the top of the back stitch, on the
 top of the chemise.
Sorry, I didn't mark this with the
Front section of gore is sewn on.
Pin the back section of the gore to the
 back section of the chemise.
 Wrong sides together. 
I have marked a blue line on the top
of this section.
You will be stitching on this line.
This is what the point of the gore will look like.
You can see the back side of the stitch on the
first side.
Sew this back section of the gore.............
Start by bringing your needle up from
 beneath, sew with the top of the
back stitch on the blue line. 
Trim the side of the seam that is the farthest
 back on the chemise. 
(The side that has the back of the stitch showing)
Trim all the way to the bottom of the chemise.
Fold the remaining side of this seam toward
the back of the chemise.
Time to finish the side seam of the chemise,
beginning at the top of the gore, finishing
just below the arm where you previously
Insert you needle right at the point where the
gore seams meet.
Come out on the top front of the chemise
and sew up toward the sleeve, until you
come to the previous stopping point.
Be sure to line up the front and back of
the chemise nicely.
The side seam is now complete. We just
need to feld the gore and side seam.
Feld the seam that is folded over.
Trim the inside of the remaining seam.
(The side that has the back of the stitch)
 All the way up to just below the sleeve where
you stopped trimming earlier,
and all the way to the bottom of the chemise.
Fold over the entire side seam and feld.
Start just below sleeve, easing over the prior feld,
all the way to the bottom of the chemise.
This side is done................
Both felds fall toward the back of the
Now hop on over to the other side
and do the same thing again.
Again, you can mirror your sides
if you choose.
Finish the hems on the sleeves and
bottom of the chemise, you are

Here are a few photos of gore
insertion on a different chemise.
 This chemise does not have gussets.
These felds fall toward the side of the chemise.
 I have mirrored the other side. 

Happy Sewing!


  1. Very good to know. Sometimes the chemise or dress is to tight and this is a good way to fix it, rather than making a new one.
    good job.

  2. Awesome. That's pretty much how I add gores to medieval costuming...but tidier. :~P

  3. Even your side gores are works of art! I hope to get back to doing some handstitching soon so I can put these lessons to good use.

  4. Sherri, I forgot to tell you that you can get lambskins on ebay too. or go to ebay and put in leatherwize. they have lots to choose from.

  5. Beautiful quality!!! Thanks for sharing...I adore your dolls and they reflect your love and talent!!!

  6. Beautiful my sister how I wish to have you here

  7. Thank you! It's very interesting to watch how you work!

  8. This is beautiful! I've added you to my blogroll! :)


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